Old Summer Palace
Victor Hugo called it a wonder of the world
On November 25, 1861, the famous Romantic writer Victor Hugo, while in exile, wrote a letter in response to a captain named Butler. In the letter, he said:
“In a corner of the world, there was a miracle, the name of this miracle is the Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan). Art has two sources: one is ideal, which has given birth to European art; the other is fantasy, which has given birth to Oriental art. The Old Summer Palace belongs to the art of fantasy. The Old Summer Palace is indeed the crystallization of all the art that an almost superhuman race could have imagined.”
Yuanmingyuan, the grand imperial garden of the Qing Dynasty, is located near the Summer Palace. It attracts around 10 million visitors from China and abroad each year, making it a must-visit destination in Beijing’s historical attractions. The garden was the residence and administrative center for five Qing emperors over a span of more than 130 years. However, in 1860, it was destroyed by fire set by the Anglo-French forces, resulting in extensive looting and irreversible damage to its cultural heritage.
My friends and I took a boat ride from the South Gate to the ruins where we could see ducks and black swans up close. Although the Ruins of the Western-style Buildings are now only broken walls, you can still see the exquisite patterns on the stone walls.
Table of Contents
Highlights
Zhengjue Temple (Chinese name: 正觉寺)
Zhengjue Temple is the only surviving ancient wooden structure within Yuanmingyuan (Old Summer Palace). The entire building is constructed using traditional wooden joinery, without a single nail. Its architectural style and interior layout reflect the characteristics of Tibetan Buddhism, making it an important site for studying Qing Dynasty Tibetan Buddhist culture. Zhengjue Temple also serves as part of the Yuanmingyuan Museum, showcasing the history, architecture, and excavated artifacts of the Yuanmingyuan. The temple’s most prized exhibit is the Bronze Horse Head.
Ruins of the Western-style Buildings (西洋楼遗址)
The Ruins of the Western-style Buildings are the first European-style garden ever built in China. Designed by Western missionaries and constructed by Chinese artisans, the site features architectural styles that showcase Western garden and architectural art. At the same time, it incorporates many elements of traditional Chinese culture in its garden layout, building forms, and decorative styles. The Dashuifa Site is the main attraction in the area, renowned for its numerous, grand, and intricately designed artificial fountains.
Huanghua Maze (黄花阵迷宫)
Huanghua Maze was once a recreational playground for the emperors. Every Mid-Autumn Festival, Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty would host a grand lantern festival here. Court ladies, holding yellow silk lotus lanterns, would navigate through the maze, and the first to reach the end would receive a reward from the emperor. This real-life maze is far more challenging than a paper one, as you only discover a path is blocked when you reach the end. Many visitors find themselves navigating the maze for a long time before reaching the finish, which was exactly the kind of enjoyment Emperor Qianlong sought.
The Yuanmingyuan was bustling on Saturday. Full of turquoise lotus leaves swaying in the wind. The low-floating white clouds made people feel the coolness of a long time. In addition to the well-known Ruins of the Western-style Buildings area, the Yuanmingyuan is also worth a visit to the Lakescape Garden section. With green lotus leaves, frolicking mandarin ducks, blue sky, and light autumn breeze, the most beautiful season in Beijing has arrived.
Black Swan Viewing Area (黑天鹅观赏区)
In 2008, a pair of beautiful and elegant black swans flew into Yuanmingyuan by chance and decided to settle there. Since then, over 100 black swan cygnets have been born in the park. Yuanmingyuan has a dedicated Black Swan Viewing Area located near the lakes, serving as the main spot for observing these graceful birds.
Fuhai Lake (福海)
Fuhai Lake covers an area of 751.84 acres, making it the largest lake in the Yuanmingyuan ruins park. It is an ideal spot for watching the sunset, especially when the lake’s surface is bathed in a golden hue at dusk, creating a breathtaking view. Visitors can take a boat ride on the lake to fully enjoy the stunning scenery of Fuhai.
How to Get to the Old Summer Palace
By Bus
- South Gate of the Old Summer Palace (Qichun Garden Gate): You can take bus routes 331, 432, 438, 498, or Yuntong Line 124 and get off at the “South Gate of the Old Summer Palace(圆明园南门)” stop.
- East Gate of the Old Summer Palace: Accessible by bus routes 365, 614, 982, Special Line 4, Yuntong Line 105, or Yuntong Line 124. Get off at the “East Gate of the Old Summer Palace(圆明园东门)” stop and walk south.
- Second Palace Gate(二宫门) (Changchun Garden Gate): You can take bus routes 365, 699, 982, Special Line 4, Yuntong Line 105, or Yuntong Line 124 and get off at the “East Road of the Old Summer Palace(圆明园东路)” stop.
- Zao Garden(藻园) Entrance: Accessible by bus routes 375, 476, 482, 534, or Special Line 6. Get off at the “Xiyuan North Station(西苑北站)” stop and walk north to the Xiyuan North Bridge.
By Subway
- Visitors can get off at Exit B of the Yuanmingyuan Station on Line 4. After exiting, it’s only about a fifty-meter walk to reach the ticket entrance at the South Gate of the Old Summer Palace.
Attraction Information
Hours
- April – October: 06:00 – 21:00 (last entry at 7:00 PM)
- November – March: 06:30 – 19:30 (last entry at 5:30 PM)
Admission
- Tourist Peak Season (June to September): 25 CNY ( ≈ 3.60 USD)
- Tourist Off-Season (Non-June to September): 25 CNY ( ≈ 3.60 USD)
Prohibited Items
- No kites, drones, or other airborne objects are allowed in the park.
- Smoking is prohibited in the park, as well as campfires, barbecues, fishing, trapping animals, and collecting plants.
- Professional filming equipment is not allowed in the park.
Visitor Services
- The park entrance offers rental services for audio guides at 20 yuan per person (approximately $2.80), with a deposit of 50 yuan (approximately $7.00). The deposit will be refunded upon returning the audio guide.
General Amenities
- Visitor Service Center
- Free restrooms
- Restaurant
- Souvenir Shop
luggage Storage
- Located about 180 meters from the East Gate of the Old Summer Palace, there is a luggage storage service available from 00:01 to 23:59. The fee is 10 yuan per day (approximately $1.40) for backpacks and 20 yuan per day (approximately $2.80) for suitcases.
The Yuanmingyuan is truly worthy of being the back garden of the Chinese Emperor, and the scenery throughout the gardens is superb. Each lake is connected by patches of lotus flowers, and there are also boats on the side. There are mandarin ducks and black swans in the lake, and countless big koi carp swimming. The whole scenery gives people a comfortable feeling. The tourists around us kept exclaiming how spectacular the Western-style Buildings would have been if it hadn't been destroyed.
Nearby McDonald's/KFC
- McDonald’s (Xiyuan Store) 麦当劳(西苑店)
No. 208, Yiheyuan Road, Longhu Xingyuehui, Shop 206 (near Exit C1 of Xiyuan Subway Station) - KFC (Xiyuan Store) 肯德基(西苑店)
No. 202, Yiheyuan Road, Level 1, Xiyuan Longhu Xingyuehui Commercial Building - If you’re unsure about how to order at a nearby Chinese restaurant or if you’re not used to the local Chinese cuisine, you can temporarily solve your dining needs by heading to the nearby McDonald’s or KFC.
Nearby Police Station
- Yuanmingyuan Police Station
圆明园派出所 - In China, the number to call the police is 110. If you have an emergency and need help, you can dial 110 at any time. Local police will usually arrive within minutes and will provide assistance with great care and responsibility.
Practical Travel Tips
- Yuanmingyuan (the Old Summer Palace) and the Summer Palace are close to each other and can be visited on the same day, but both sites are large, so you’ll need ample stamina and time.
- It’s advisable to wear comfortable, active clothing and shoes for extended walking and exploration.
- Bring enough water and snacks for convenience during your visit.
- Please maintain silence and avoid loud noises while touring.
- Suggested walking route: Enter from the East Gate → Western-style Ruins → Boat ride or sightseeing car → Junction of the three parks → Stroll around the Lotus Garden by the lake → Exit at the South Gate (near the subway station). This should take about three and a half hours.
Attraction Surprises
Peony Sea (芍药花海)
The peonies at Yuanmingyuan reach their peak viewing period from early to mid-May. During this time, visitors can admire the vibrant sea of peonies in various areas of the park, including the Zao Garden, Hongci Yonghu, Yuedi Yunjü, and Changchun Xianguan. Among these, the peony garden at Hongci Yonghu is the largest and a popular spot for visitors to take photos and create lasting memories.
Yuanmingyuan Ice Cream (圆明园文创雪糕)
Inspired by the lotus, Yuanmingyuan has introduced lotus-shaped ice cream available in five flavors: lotus, strawberry, rose, rum raisin, and pistachio. There’s also ice cream designed based on the Grand Waterworks of the Western-style Ruins, featuring intricate textures and a lifelike appearance.
Dashuifa Fridge Magnet (大水法冰箱贴)
The design of the Grand Waterworks fridge magnet captures the architectural features and landscape elements of the Grand Waterworks in Yuanmingyuan. It showcases its Baroque-style arches and fountain designs, along with artistic water wave patterns, fully reflecting the cultural essence of Yuanmingyuan.
How Visitors Rate the Old Summer Palace
International tourists
In Beijing, I've found that it's better to see fewer places and truly experience them. Visiting one or two major sites per day, combined with a stroll through some hutongs, is ideal. The crowds at popular attractions can be overwhelming, and the time spent arriving and leaving can add up. If you rush through, you’ll likely come away with more memories of the crowds than of the actual sights.
Local tourists from China
Entering from the south gate takes about half an hour to reach the main attractions, including the Western-style ruins and the panoramic model of Yuanmingyuan, which both require a QR code to enter. If it's your first time visiting, consider taking a guided tour to learn more about the history. The Yuanmingyuan Museum features many treasures and informative displays.
On your way, you’ll pass by the lotus pond where you can rent a boat for a lovely ride on the shimmering waters, costing 25 yuan per person. Overall, the visit will take at least half a day. We went in late August, and the weather was perfect. Just a short distance from the park is the entrance to Tsinghua University.
